I’m used to rhubarb baked into cobblers, crisps and crumbles, but it surely additionally shines when it’s handled as a savory ingredient, like in Naz Deravian’s khoresh rivas, a vegetarian model of the massive, comforting spring stew typically made with lamb. Right here, rhubarb cooks down on a mattress of beans simmered with fried parsley and mint, going mushy and tender within the steam of the pot, however retaining its shade and superb tang.
This isn’t a fast dish — it takes a while to prep and fry the parsley and mint, and to fry the onions and simmer the beans. However the result’s gorgeous, extra like a Assertion Bean, a Celebration Bean, a Social gathering Bean! And in case you’re utilizing dried beans as a substitute of canned, you should use two cups of that cooking water to offer the braise much more depth.
The soup is fast, and also you make it by seasoning a can of crushed tomatoes with fried scallions and ginger, ketchup, and sesame oil. Whereas the reduce tofu is bobbing in there, drizzle in some crushed eggs. It’s substantial sufficient for a hefty, end-of-the-day meal, heat and comfy and filled with protein. Although in case you occur to make money working from home, it could possibly be a very nice lunch to make for your self on a dreary day (it comes collectively in simply quarter-hour).
Right here’s one other glorious lunch: fried tofu with mixed grains. Samin Nosrat, who wrote about how she made this frequently in a co-working house, just lately instructed me that it’s nonetheless her favourite method to prepare dinner tofu. The dish is so spare, and the ingredient record so quick, you is likely to be suspicious at first! However soaking medium-firm tofu in liquid aminos, then frying it in coconut oil boosts its taste and makes probably the most of its custardlike texture. For one thing so fundamental, it’s unexpectedly luxurious.
One Extra Factor!
In case you missed it, earlier this week, The Veggie hosted its first digital occasion (watch the playback here). The New York Instances Meals editor Emily Weinstein, and the creator and chef Samin Nosrat, each joined me to speak in regards to the joys of vegetarian residence cooking. Readers dropped in dwell to ask questions, and I discussed a couple of books whereas we had been chatting:
“Classic Indian Vegetarian Cookery” by Julie Sahni. This got here up when a reader wished to know why her home made saag paneer didn’t dwell as much as restaurant variations. Sahni’s model is much less about cream and butter, which eating places typically lean on, and extra in regards to the texture and seasoning of the greens, with the luxuriousness coming from the fried paneer itself (although you possibly can drizzle ghee everywhere in the high if you need it further buttery).
“East: 120 Vegan and Vegetarian Recipes From Bangalore to Beijing” by Meera Sodha. This can be a actually nice assortment of recipes from one among my favourite cooks and recipe writers. The curries and noodle dishes are significantly rewarding, and I like how Sodha has fast concepts for cooking from pantry staples, too.
“Veggie Burgers Every Which Way” by Lukas Volger. This got here up as a result of a reader was on a veggie-burger journey, studying to make one that might stand as much as the grill. There are such a lot of issues to consider: drying out substances as a lot as potential earlier than making the patty, enjoying with the scale and binder. That is the ebook for anybody trying to experiment and obtain one thing very particular with their patties, but it surely’s additionally a terrific common useful resource for concepts.
Thanks for studying The Veggie. Fast notice: Final week, my editor Tanya Sichynsky stepped in to reply reader questions, together with one about avoiding nightshades, and unintentionally pointed towards a gnocchi recipe made with potatoes (a nightshade).
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